There are usually two types of climbing available at an indoor gym: (1) bouldering and (2) free climbing. Each has their own rock climbing grades that will hopefully make more sense after this article.
Bouldering
If you want to focus on technique and skill, then bouldering is perfect. Due to the unique strength and stamina that it highlights, bouldering has its own rating system. It starts with “V” and followed by a number, ranging from 1 to 13+. The higher the number the more difficult the boulder problem.
Although, to help make more sense of this you can group them.
| V1-V3 | beginner |
| V4-V6 | intermediate |
| V7-V9 | advanced |
| V10-V12 | expert |
| V13+ | inhuman |
Free Climbing
Don’t worry, I’m not talking about free soloing. Free climbing covers top rope, lead, sport, and trad climbing. AKA climbing with a rope and all the other equipment.
This discipline is completely different from bouldering as a route can be two or three times longer than the typical boulder problem. Targeting endurance-based strength and knowledge of various types of gear. The rating starts with a “5” followed by another number, ranging from 5.4-5.13+. (The lowest rated route I’ve seen in a gym was a 5.4, which was designed for kids with cute alphabet shaped holds.)
Here are some more groupings to help understand the range.
| 5.4-5.8 | beginner |
| 5.9-5.10 | intermediate |
| 5.11 | advanced |
| 5.12 | expert |
| 5.13 or higher | inhuman |
Although, it doesn’t stop there for free climbing. A “+” or “-“ can be added after a “5.9” to express that a route is slightly more difficult than a 5.9, but not as difficult as a 5.10. As if that’s not enough, letters are used too; a, b, c, and d. An “a” rated hold is easier than a “d”.
So, a 5.11a is easier than a 5.11c while a 5.12d+ is harder than a 5.12d. Make sense?
Collaboration
To put a cherry on top of it all, every rock climbing route and boulder problem is decided upon through collaboration. When a setter, the person who designs the route, goes to rate their creation, it’s open to others to go up and share their thoughts after trying it.
What you might call a 5.11b, I could consider a 5.12a. In some gyms, they’ll place a rating card and marker at the base of the route, so that those that climb it can share what they think the route is rated.
This is one of the things that I love about rock climbing; it builds a culture of inclusion. You can be introverted and hold to yourself or be the one who likes to party all night. Climbing can be an escape and/or source of joy for anyone.
