The types of shoes you can use for bouldering vary by the type of climber you are. For example, if you do nothing but boulder, then I would recommend shoes that are easy to slip on and off. But if you’re on the other side of the coin, and rarely boulder, then what you’ll need is completely different.
Due to these variations I have recommendations based on the type of climber you might be, so that you can find the best bouldering shoes for you.
| Type of Climber | Climbing Shoes |
|---|---|
| Rarely Boulder | La Sportiva Katana Lace |
| Sometimes Boulder | La Sportiva Tarantulace |
| Often Boulder | La Sportiva Skwama OR Butora Acro |
| Always Boulder | Five Ten Hiangle OR La Sportiva Solution |
Rarely Boulder
If you’re someone that loves the journey and endurance of climbing long routes, or just prefer tall walls to bouldering, then I highly recommend La Sportiva’s Katana Lace shoes. The more you use these shoes the more they will feel like an extension of you.
My wife absolutely loves her Katana Laces, and the longer she wears them the more comfortable they become. This is something much different than my experience in my normal climbing shoes; La Sportiva Tarantulaces. For example, if my wife is climbing routes back-to-back-to-back, and I’m just standing in my climbing shoes, then I’ll take them off and avoid sore feet while I belay my sweetheart.
Sometimes Boulder
If you end up going over to the boulders to try it out every now and again, but you’re more comfortable being tied to a rope and overcoming the ascent, then you should take a look at La Sportiva’s Tarantulaces.
These shoes can be uncomfortable, depending on your feet, but they have a great price and can take you from a beginner to an intermediate climber. They’re not as intense as the Katana Laces, so you’ll be less worried as you walk around the gym and scuff them up on your future climbs.
Often Boulder
If you’re trying to improve as a rock climber, or you simply don’t have someone to belay you for the majority of the time, then you should go with the La Sportiva Skwamas.
These Shoes look pretty extreme, but the reality is that you’ll spend a lot of time taking you shoes on and off. And the single velcro strap on the Skwamas will save you time and annoyance that laced shoes bring to bouldering.
If you’re looking for something less harsh on the arch of your foot, then check out Butora’s Acro shoes. They’re not ultra comfortable, since climbing shoes generally aren’t, but you’ll save a bit of money.
Always Boulder
If you thrive on bouldering, and that’s what you love about rock climbing, then you should go all out on the Five Ten Hiangle climbing shoes. These come in at a great price, slick styling, and of course come off nice and easy with the single strap.
But, if you want to take your bouldering to a whole other level, then La Sportiva’s Solution shoes are it! These things have so much mobility, while still being solid where you want it (achilles, heel, and toes). I don’t know how a climbing shoe can have such a mix of flexibility and rigidity.
Still Not Sure What to Do?
If you don’t fit any of these categories, then do what my brother did; go to two or more different climbing gyms and test out their rental shoes. (Some gyms that sell shoes will even let you try a pair or two out.)
By trying different shoes you’ll learn what matters most to you; comfort, capability, laces, velcro, intense arch curve, minimal arch curve, etc. Once you feel more confident in what you want in a climbing shoe, and what style of climbing you enjoy most, then get out there and pick up that pair.
Enjoy your new pair of bouldering shoes!